Eleven Madison Park reintroduces animal products after vegan pivot
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Eleven Madison Park is preparing to reintroduce animal products to its menu, marking a notable change from the plant-based approach it adopted in 2021. Chef Daniel Humm announced that beginning October 14, diners will be able to choose between a fully plant-based tasting menu and one that includes select animal proteins such as seafood and duck.
The move follows a period of reflection for one of New York’s most celebrated restaurants. When Eleven Madison Park reopened after the pandemic, it drew international attention for becoming the first three-Michelin-starred restaurant to serve a menu free of meat and dairy. That decision was framed as a bold step toward a more sustainable and ethical model of fine dining. However, the new format reflects a recalibration that takes guest preferences and business needs into account.
A practical shift after bold ideals
Chef Humm has described the original decision to go fully plant-based as driven by a desire to address the climate crisis through food. The restaurant replaced dishes like its signature duck with innovative plant-based alternatives that aimed to preserve the spirit of high-end dining.
While the intention attracted praise, the execution presented challenges. Wine sales reportedly declined as diners found fewer pairings that complemented the vegan menu. Private dining inquiries also decreased. This limited the restaurant’s ability to generate revenue from events, which play a key role in the financial structure of fine dining.
There was also criticism when it became known that EMP quietly served meat at private events even during its vegan-only phase. This raised questions about consistency between public values and behind-the-scenes operations. Over time, it became clear that the plant-based model alone might not be sustainable for the business in its current form.
Balancing ethics with hospitality
The updated menu structure reflects a shift in priorities. Humm said the goal is to create an experience where more people feel welcome, without stepping away from the restaurant’s focus on plant-based cooking. The new approach will allow guests to choose a version of the menu that best fits their preferences, whether fully plant-based or with limited animal products.
This direction is framed less as a retreat from values and more as an extension of hospitality. Humm pointed out that sharing meals is a central part of human connection, and the new format is intended to support that. The plant-based menu will remain available and will continue to evolve, but the restaurant will no longer be limited to one way of serving its guests.
What it means for fine dining in 2025
The change at Eleven Madison Park reflects a broader trend within the fine dining industry. Chefs and restaurateurs are increasingly finding that rigid formats do not always align with the expectations of their clientele. Flexibility is becoming part of the new definition of luxury.
While some advocates for plant-based eating have voiced disappointment, others view the dual-menu structure as a realistic compromise. It allows for continued investment in plant-based innovation while opening the door to guests who want traditional options.
The restaurant is choosing a model that offers room to adjust as it continues to evolve. This updated approach may not satisfy everyone, but it acknowledges the complexity of running a high-profile kitchen in a changing industry.
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